Wednesday, December 14, 2011

2 faves

I kinda outgrew my lands end canvas obsession over the past 6-9 months. I don't know...maybe it was the inconsistency in the quality, or the quality of the inconsistency. And I kinda felt like maybe, even with all of its expanded offerings this season, there would still be nuttin there to make me hit the order button.

And then, then, they drop the rust colored waxed canvas field jacket. You know the one.

Well, to be short and sweet, its the best piece they did all year. It's a damn nice treat, especially now at the ridiculous price its at. If I had to give up all of my LEC gear for this one piece, I'd make that trade in an instant.

Now if I had only gotten Nir Patel's ear at the Pop Up flea and told him they gotta do something about their denim...

As for Frank M. and the J. Crew posse, another fine fall me thinks. The introduction of Wallace and Barnes was a nice touch. A needed step forward. Some of the stuff is a bit steep with that Made in China tag, but there were some stand-out pieces.

My best $ spent: W&B Sinclair sweatshirt. This baby is THICK and warm and fits slim without crushing my six-pack abs. I don't have six-pack abs, but you get the picture.
The flannels were tight, but this Sinclair takes the cake.

I have gone a bit nuts with the purchases from J Crew this fall: Chippewa boots, Alden boots, wool CPO jacket, wool trousers, etc. I always do the most damage in Fall. Thanks Frank. Give my regards to Wallace & Barnes.

Sunday, December 11, 2011

14.75oz Ankara

After last year's Pop-Up flea, I wrote a piece on Tellason denim and the two guys behind the label, Pete Searson & Tony Patella. At last year's Pop Up they were selling a limited edition straight leg version in conjunction with A Continuos Lean. I forked over my money without hesitation.

I wore the hell outta my Tellason x ACL straight leg jeans over the past year: shoveling snow in them, cutting the grass in them, and raking leaves in them. Even put them through the washing machine twice and they turned out superb.

I had the pleasure of chatting with Tony and Pete again at this year's Pop Up Flea. I'm happy to say that over the past year Tellason has gotten itself into the finest denim shops in the world. They even opened their own on-line store (check out

At the Pop Up flea, Tony showed me their latest creation: a straight leg version (known as the Ankara) that was made with 14.75oz denim woven by Cone Mills. The denim is exclusive is Tellason. It has a wonderful, thick (but soft) feel to it, and a deep indigo shade. Gorgeous to see and even better to wear. I could not resist and had to pick these up this past week.

If you're looking for some American-made (San Fran, that is!) denim, from top to bottom, leather patch to pocket stiching, you really ought to give Tellason a serious look.

I can't think of two more passionate, fine gentlemen I'd rather give my greenbacks to for the real blues.

Spend a few minutes HERE

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Levi's 505 Selvage Made in the USA

I have always have a fond place in my heart for Levi's 505 model. Back in high school, I had two perfect fitting 505s in a svelte size 32. I wore the hell outta them, and if I remember correctly, they were swiped by my girlfriend when she went off to college. Ahh, the makings a good Levi's commercial.

Through the 90's I did have a few 505s, but nothing memorable. My tastes shifted toward the iconic 501. I didn't consider the 505 model again until Brooks Brothers put out their made in the USA version last year. I scooped up this model but was disappointed that at $148 the denim wasn't made in the USA and wasn't selvage.

For the last year, the thought of USA made selvage 505s has haunted me. I never really made a concerted effort to find them. I did try the 1967 505s that J. Crew was offering, but they were too slim for my tastes.

While surfing around last week, wearing my Brooks 505s, I decided to search for these. Whaddya know, a blog post out there about a made in the USA 505, that was raw selvage, and limited edition. There were only 505 made. Sounded great, except that the blog post was a year old. What were the chances of finding, I thought. I had been looking for an excuse to check out the Levi's Vintage shop that had opened last year in NYC on West 14th street, so what the hell. Lo and behold, there was some stock of the 505s. Sales person told me that these were the 2011 model and the 2010 limited edition model was sold out. Tried on a few pairs of 501s and was stuck on the 505s, so was ready to leave with these when I figured I'd ask one more time if the sales dude could check for me. He came back upstairs, proudly holding 505 #29 of 505 from the limited edition run of 2010.

Did I need another pair of denim? I could tell you 100 things I need before more denim, but the nostalgia factor kicks in and my will power is no match for raw, selvage North Carolina denim made by US workers.

Here's the original blog post JUNCTUREMAG

Here's some shots of my new 505s. You can see the 29/505 stamped on the front pocket bag. Only gripe: no chainstitched hem.

Wonder if my pair from 1988 was made in the USA?

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Hello Old Friends

It's been a while, I know. I hope you all have been well and life has been smiling at you. I've been mulling over coming back and having a voice again in the blogosphere.

If you see a new post from me soon, you'll know I've been lured back from my slumber.

Until then, be well my friends.


Tuesday, May 24, 2011

2 years on...

Thirty Selvedge all started two years ago (May 12th 2009 to be exact) with a posting about the upcoming Body and Soul reunion party.

I've been thinking and thinking that coming full circle to Body and Soul would be an appropriate way to close out this blog. As you may, or may not, have noticed, nothing much has been posted here lately.

So if there's one last piece of advice I could give, it would be to get your buns over to Webster Hall (NYC) this Sunday May 29th and experience the majesty of music that is Body and Soul. I will be there, for sure. My Aldens won't. Wear comfortable shoes and clothes.

I thank all of you that may have had an interest in this blog over the past two years. Perhaps something I rambled on about interested you or perhaps helped you. That would be good to know.

I wish you all well. Won't say goodbye, just see you round. Don't forget to shine your shoes, ok?


Wednesday, April 6, 2011

The Pressure

March was a helluva a month at work and April doesn't seem to be letting up. Seems everyone is doing more and more, with less perks and pay. It really is enough to make you a crazy sometimes.

Back when I first started buying House 12" singles in '91, one of the first records I bought was "The Pressure" by Sounds of Blackness. The Frankie Knuckles Classic Mix is pure aural bliss when listened to LOUD as HELL with the lights off. If any of you remember hearing this at Sound Factory Bar in 91-92, you know what I mean.

Please listen carefully.


Monday, April 4, 2011

Epaulet Saves the Red Dream

Last year, all the rage round this time of year was the J. Crew chambray utility shirt in Red. Yours truly jumped on the bandwagon, but then quickly jumped off once I read the care tag and saw the 25% linen content.

Damn, damn, linen makes me itch. I love the look and allure of linen, but I can't take that damn itch it brings on. Thus, I held off.

I tried a red chambray from Lucky Brand, but the Large fit like a XL and the M had sleeves much too short. The GAP's version was a good fitter, but the shirt looked too pink.

3 strikes and yer out. I put the idea of a quality, affordable red chambray to sleep.

Surprisingly last week, while obsessively checking Epaulet's website for new shirts, their new point collar red chambray popped up! I've had semi-success with Epaulet's shirts (some being just too slim on me), so this was the perfect excuse to head over to their shop to do a real-life try on.

First thing I noticed was that the shirt was super soft. Beautiful drape. The red is spot on for the shade I had been hoping for. I went for an XL, my usual size in Epaulet shirts. Expecting something too tight across the chest (or should I say, across the gut), I was happy to be wrong. The shirt fit like a glove. Perfectly slim (not tight!) across the shoulders and chest, with a little bit of give so as not to pop buttons after my third size of pizza. It took me about 5 seconds of checking in the mirror to know this was a must-have. Many others must have thought the same thing as I noticed the XL sold out not long thereafter.

The beefy oxfords in Blue and White were right along the same lines in terms of fit, so it was the perfect trifecta. These shirts really are gorgeous. The double-chest pocket Epaulet utility shirts were damn nice too, but for some reason the fit on these didn't serve me as well. A bit too tight across the chest.

I was a bit nervous for any shrinkage after washing, but this weekend I gave the blue oxford a cold water wash and air dry. I'm happy to say I didn't notice any shrinkage.

As an added bonus, I got to shoot the breeze with owners Mike and Adele for a good hour. They were kind enough to show me new Rivet Chino shorts that are due next month, a new slim field pant, and some gorgeous hand-sewn, made-in-Maine leather shoes/boots. It was a thoroughly enjoyable visit, from start to finish. They're currently having a sale on selected products, where proceeds are benefitting the Japanese Red Cross. A win-win for all, indeed.

See Ep's redness HERE