2 faves

I kinda outgrew my lands end canvas obsession over the past 6-9 months. I don't know...maybe it was the inconsistency in the quality, or the quality of the inconsistency. And I kinda felt like maybe, even with all of its expanded offerings this season, there would still be nuttin there to make me hit the order button.

And then, then, they drop the rust colored waxed canvas field jacket. You know the one.

Well, to be short and sweet, its the best piece they did all year. It's a damn nice treat, especially now at the ridiculous price its at. If I had to give up all of my LEC gear for this one piece, I'd make that trade in an instant.

Now if I had only gotten Nir Patel's ear at the Pop Up flea and told him they gotta do something about their denim...

As for Frank M. and the J. Crew posse, another fine fall me thinks. The introduction of Wallace and Barnes was a nice touch. A needed step forward. Some of the stuff is a bit steep with that Made in China tag, but there were some stand-out pieces.

My best $ spent: W&B Sinclair sweatshirt. This baby is THICK and warm and fits slim without crushing my six-pack abs. I don't have six-pack abs, but you get the picture.
The flannels were tight, but this Sinclair takes the cake.


I have gone a bit nuts with the purchases from J Crew this fall: Chippewa boots, Alden boots, wool CPO jacket, wool trousers, etc. I always do the most damage in Fall. Thanks Frank. Give my regards to Wallace & Barnes.

14.75oz Ankara

After last year's Pop-Up flea, I wrote a piece on Tellason denim and the two guys behind the label, Pete Searson & Tony Patella. At last year's Pop Up they were selling a limited edition straight leg version in conjunction with A Continuos Lean. I forked over my money without hesitation.

I wore the hell outta my Tellason x ACL straight leg jeans over the past year: shoveling snow in them, cutting the grass in them, and raking leaves in them. Even put them through the washing machine twice and they turned out superb.

I had the pleasure of chatting with Tony and Pete again at this year's Pop Up Flea. I'm happy to say that over the past year Tellason has gotten itself into the finest denim shops in the world. They even opened their own on-line store (check out Tellason.com).

At the Pop Up flea, Tony showed me their latest creation: a straight leg version (known as the Ankara) that was made with 14.75oz denim woven by Cone Mills. The denim is exclusive is Tellason. It has a wonderful, thick (but soft) feel to it, and a deep indigo shade. Gorgeous to see and even better to wear. I could not resist and had to pick these up this past week.

If you're looking for some American-made (San Fran, that is!) denim, from top to bottom, leather patch to pocket stiching, you really ought to give Tellason a serious look.

I can't think of two more passionate, fine gentlemen I'd rather give my greenbacks to for the real blues.

Spend a few minutes HERE

Levi's 505 Selvage Made in the USA

I have always have a fond place in my heart for Levi's 505 model. Back in high school, I had two perfect fitting 505s in a svelte size 32. I wore the hell outta them, and if I remember correctly, they were swiped by my girlfriend when she went off to college. Ahh, the makings a good Levi's commercial.

Through the 90's I did have a few 505s, but nothing memorable. My tastes shifted toward the iconic 501. I didn't consider the 505 model again until Brooks Brothers put out their made in the USA version last year. I scooped up this model but was disappointed that at $148 the denim wasn't made in the USA and wasn't selvage.

For the last year, the thought of USA made selvage 505s has haunted me. I never really made a concerted effort to find them. I did try the 1967 505s that J. Crew was offering, but they were too slim for my tastes.

While surfing around last week, wearing my Brooks 505s, I decided to search for these. Whaddya know, a blog post out there about a made in the USA 505, that was raw selvage, and limited edition. There were only 505 made. Sounded great, except that the blog post was a year old. What were the chances of finding, I thought. I had been looking for an excuse to check out the Levi's Vintage shop that had opened last year in NYC on West 14th street, so what the hell. Lo and behold, there was some stock of the 505s. Sales person told me that these were the 2011 model and the 2010 limited edition model was sold out. Tried on a few pairs of 501s and was stuck on the 505s, so was ready to leave with these when I figured I'd ask one more time if the sales dude could check for me. He came back upstairs, proudly holding 505 #29 of 505 from the limited edition run of 2010.

Did I need another pair of denim? I could tell you 100 things I need before more denim, but the nostalgia factor kicks in and my will power is no match for raw, selvage North Carolina denim made by US workers.

Here's the original blog post JUNCTUREMAG

Here's some shots of my new 505s. You can see the 29/505 stamped on the front pocket bag. Only gripe: no chainstitched hem.







Wonder if my pair from 1988 was made in the USA?

Hello Old Friends

It's been a while, I know. I hope you all have been well and life has been smiling at you. I've been mulling over coming back and having a voice again in the blogosphere.

If you see a new post from me soon, you'll know I've been lured back from my slumber.

Until then, be well my friends.

~JB

2 years on...

Thirty Selvedge all started two years ago (May 12th 2009 to be exact) with a posting about the upcoming Body and Soul reunion party.

I've been thinking and thinking that coming full circle to Body and Soul would be an appropriate way to close out this blog. As you may, or may not, have noticed, nothing much has been posted here lately.

So if there's one last piece of advice I could give, it would be to get your buns over to Webster Hall (NYC) this Sunday May 29th and experience the majesty of music that is Body and Soul. I will be there, for sure. My Aldens won't. Wear comfortable shoes and clothes.

I thank all of you that may have had an interest in this blog over the past two years. Perhaps something I rambled on about interested you or perhaps helped you. That would be good to know.

I wish you all well. Won't say goodbye, just see you round. Don't forget to shine your shoes, ok?

Ciao.

The Pressure

March was a helluva a month at work and April doesn't seem to be letting up. Seems everyone is doing more and more, with less perks and pay. It really is enough to make you a crazy sometimes.

Back when I first started buying House 12" singles in '91, one of the first records I bought was "The Pressure" by Sounds of Blackness. The Frankie Knuckles Classic Mix is pure aural bliss when listened to LOUD as HELL with the lights off. If any of you remember hearing this at Sound Factory Bar in 91-92, you know what I mean.

Please listen carefully.

I NEED RELIEF.

Epaulet Saves the Red Dream

Last year, all the rage round this time of year was the J. Crew chambray utility shirt in Red. Yours truly jumped on the bandwagon, but then quickly jumped off once I read the care tag and saw the 25% linen content.

Damn, damn, linen makes me itch. I love the look and allure of linen, but I can't take that damn itch it brings on. Thus, I held off.

I tried a red chambray from Lucky Brand, but the Large fit like a XL and the M had sleeves much too short. The GAP's version was a good fitter, but the shirt looked too pink.

3 strikes and yer out. I put the idea of a quality, affordable red chambray to sleep.

Surprisingly last week, while obsessively checking Epaulet's website for new shirts, their new point collar red chambray popped up! I've had semi-success with Epaulet's shirts (some being just too slim on me), so this was the perfect excuse to head over to their shop to do a real-life try on.

First thing I noticed was that the shirt was super soft. Beautiful drape. The red is spot on for the shade I had been hoping for. I went for an XL, my usual size in Epaulet shirts. Expecting something too tight across the chest (or should I say, across the gut), I was happy to be wrong. The shirt fit like a glove. Perfectly slim (not tight!) across the shoulders and chest, with a little bit of give so as not to pop buttons after my third size of pizza. It took me about 5 seconds of checking in the mirror to know this was a must-have. Many others must have thought the same thing as I noticed the XL sold out not long thereafter.

The beefy oxfords in Blue and White were right along the same lines in terms of fit, so it was the perfect trifecta. These shirts really are gorgeous. The double-chest pocket Epaulet utility shirts were damn nice too, but for some reason the fit on these didn't serve me as well. A bit too tight across the chest.

I was a bit nervous for any shrinkage after washing, but this weekend I gave the blue oxford a cold water wash and air dry. I'm happy to say I didn't notice any shrinkage.

As an added bonus, I got to shoot the breeze with owners Mike and Adele for a good hour. They were kind enough to show me new Rivet Chino shorts that are due next month, a new slim field pant, and some gorgeous hand-sewn, made-in-Maine leather shoes/boots. It was a thoroughly enjoyable visit, from start to finish. They're currently having a sale on selected products, where proceeds are benefitting the Japanese Red Cross. A win-win for all, indeed.

See Ep's redness HERE

Where your Levi's come from

If you look inside your Levi's, chances are they are made in Mexico. Here's how your 501s come to life, Mexico-style.

A Word from Giuseppe

Just in case you don't read the super-useful-and-cool web log by Giuseppe,."An Affordable Wardrobe,(see my links), I wanted to post this excerpt from one of his posts last week.

This has been going through my head continuously as I observe those around me this week. Brilliantly put:

"People who use the fact that they look after small children as an excuse to walk around dressed like children are being lazy. Adulthood, and especially parenthood, is no place for laziness. I'll try not to get on a high horse about it, but dressing like an adult teaches children a little something about being an adult. Spending the day in pyjamas and sweat pants teaches them something too"

A Cigar a Day...

After months of fiending, I have scored the Alden Cigar Shell Cordovan LWBs. I let them go once and I wasn't gonna let 'em go again! Shown here with some outstanding Wool Cavalry Twill trousers from Epaulet. Direct sunlight shot.

Desire

Its 70 degrees today here in NJ. Makes you feel so good, after the winter we just had. Here's something else to make you feel so good: UltraNate, remixed by NJ's own maestro Kerri "KAOZ 6:23" Chandler.

Shade of Blue

Stopped by to see my pals at the Short Hills, NJ J. Crew last night.

Aside from the normal S/S offerings, something very cool caught my eye.

There is a section of men's wear dedicated to Indigo gear. You may remember the indigo dipped sweatshirt from a few months back (see below).

Cool as hell with its unique shade of blue, but I had to balk at the $98 price tag.

All of the pieces were in this vein. There was an indigo dipped work shirt, pull over shirt, and a great looking indigo dipped pocket t-shirt. Most of these items seem to be on-line, but they're easy to pass over when surfing.

Check 'em out in-store if you wanna see something different and fresh.

St. Viateur experience

A few weeks back I had the pleasure of stealing a few hours and passing the time on St. Viateur Street in Montreal. St. Viateur is one of my favorite spots in Montreal, thanks to its eclectic mix of boho types, old school Italian and Portuguese immigrants, French speaking Montrealers and the occasional Hasidic Jew. A wonderful mix indeed!

Combine that flavor with places like Cafe Olimpico, the world famous St. Viateur Bagels, the Crepiere, and the nearby shops of Parc Ave, and you've got a great place to relax and enjoy a chill afternoon. Me and my boy no doubt did.

Overheard

Overheard on the corner of Rivington and Ludlow St, on Manhattan's Lower East Side, as I was standing there pondering an Epaulet purchase:

2 guys walking, probably early to mid 20s. Both with hoods and saggy jeans. One says to the other "yeah, I know, cuz the next thing I was gonna say to her was I can do it all night baby".

Classic.

Ep & Al

I haven't had the chance to rave yet about my new love affair with Epaulet (menswear joint in Brooklyn, Lower East Side, and online at www.epauletshop.com), but let's just say that Epaulet is the real som-bitchin' deal. But I'm sure you already knew that.

Here is a shot today of my Walt Flannel Wool Trousers and Alden Cigar Shell Cordovan Indy boots, both sourced from Epaulet.



I'm lovin these two pieces to death. That being said, I'm sure I'll stain them, rip them, tear them, destroy them, etc, by day's end.

Winter's Treat

The past 4 years I've been allocating 4 vacation days to President's Day week, and making a winter trip up to Montreal. If you're one of those people who whines and complains about the cold, then stay home.

If you're willing to brave the weather (not so bad!), then get out there and soak up all this wonderful city has to offer. From the charm of Old Montreal at the Port to the panoramic views atop of Mount Royal, the city sooths with European flavor.

$2.50 today, well spent:

W.P. S/S 2011

The ever popular Warby Parker rolled out some new styles last week for Spring/Summer. The theme of funky, chunky plastic frames that launched the company continues.

And still $95 ! Come on!

Here are my faves from the collection, the Preston:


Check them all out HERE

New from India

Last year, come end of summer, I was totally madrassed out.

Well, J. Crew is starting to roll out their new offerings and this one has my eye.
Sooner or later, thou shall be mine. Time heals all wounds...

Nudie, Raw

Came across this informative video on the making of nudie jeans:

To help me see better, my dear !

I've been mulling over a pair of Warby Parkers since I first caught wind of them in March of last year.

I was able to get a quick glimpse of them at the Pop Up Flea here in NYC last November, but the joint was so packed that I didn't get a chance to really concentrate on them. I took their business card, knowing I'd be back.

In the meantime, I added a pair of Shuron frames to my arsenal this winter to replace my Moscot Hyman frames which were two years old and showing signs of age. Even so, I was still intrigued by the Light Sandalwood color of some of the WP frames. I usually wear dark brown or black, so this lighter color was a welcomed change.

Just my luck, I found out in November that the Light Sandalwood color was on back-order. So the wait continued...

Finally, in January, I was able to get up to the WP showroom on 16th St in NYC for a view of all the frames. The space was airy & bright with a lot of energy. The frames were easily accessible for trying on and the staff ulta-helpful. They had some new offerings that weren't even on-line yet. (They even gave me $5 off for making the trek there to visit them!)

I was in and out in 20 mins, since I had my current Rx in hand. I went for the Fillmore in Light Sandalwood. I was promised the frames in 10 working days.

All in all, a great purchasing experience thus far.

My frames ended up arriving at my house in around 5 days! When I got them I was disappointed to find that one of the lenses seemed loose. I called the WP 1-800 number and they apologized and promised to ship me a new pair right away. And that they did, no questions asked. I sent the first frames back, being extremely satisfied with their customer service.

The frames are aesthetically wonderful, IMO. The size is perfect for my face. The color is light, but not too light to conflict with my olive-toned skin. They're probably not as hefty feeling as my Moscot Lemtosh, but I do like the color and fit better, to be honest. And at $95...how can you argue? Even better, a pair of glasses was donated to someone in need as a result of my purchase.

Two days later someone stopped me and said, " wow, those are great frames! I'd love to get a pair like that but I don't have $400-500 to spend. Those are Oliver People's right?".

Nope, I said, grinning from ear to ear. Needless to say, the dude was scratching down the Warby Parker name faster that I could get it out.

Looking for frames? A second pair? A weekend only pair? Do yourself a great favor and check out WP. Don't forget, they'll also send you up to 5 pairs to try on so you can stare at yourself in the mirror for a long time without feeling self-conscious around the sales staff (or maybe that's just me)!

Foul Weather Friends

As it goes, I went on a bit of tear during the last few months. Shoe wise, that is.

I had fulfilled my denim quotient, so what better to finish off the outfit than a sturdy pair of shoes. A&A (Alden and Allen Edmonds), as I call them, reached deep into my wallet, and pschye, and showed me how the big boys do it. Appropriate though, as my years move on and I need something better to support this frame other than a pair of disposable made-in-china, glued together leather shoes. This all sounds familiar to me. I think we've been through this before.

So what happens when you line your closet with the best shoes money can buy (debatable, I assume) and then old man winter throws at you the best he's got. Well, a man has got to fight back appropriately.

Thus, I give you, my shoe MVP for this winter.

Courtesy of Rockport. Bought in 2008.

Here's what its got:
-Waterproof
-Super soft nubuck leather
-Versatile light brown color
-Split toe styling
-Rubber bottom for sturdy winter wear
-Comfortable as hell.

Thanks Rocky, for taking the beatings this year while the A&A fellas wait patiently in the closet for a sunny day.

Yeah, I know, fair weather friends.

Phil's Day

Happy Groundhog Day. Punxutawney Phil is in the press again. I see this year he was politically incorrect, as usual, wearing real fur.

Anyway, its another winter storm here in the NYC area. This time its ice. Not nice. Another day for the nice shoes and threads to stay in the closet.

The 4 or 5 of you good people who read this web log (okay maybe I'm exaggerating...3 or 4) may have noticed I didn't have much to say during January. Or then again, maybe you didn't notice. That's the issue I've been mulling over for the past month.

I've been doing some physical therapy for the tendonitis in my ankle, as I sit there and count to 30 doing boring exercises I've been thinking, do I continue this thing? Does anybody read it? Does anyone care what I'm wearing today, or what I plan on buying, or what I bought, or who I kissed. What was that?

There are so many men's fashion blogs out there and God knows most do it better than I do.

So if there is anyone out there, what do you suggest? Go away and leave the blogosphere a better place? Begin to feature more pleated pants and tab collar shirts? Try out some 2 for $18 Faded Glory Jeans from Walmart?

What Say ye?

p.s. just in case you were wondering, today I'm shoveling snow & ice in my Tellason x ACL jeans, red wing boots, and j. jcrew jaspe henley.

Take that to the Bank!

Now I want to sound like an old man, but come on, this was when music was MUSIC.

Infectious! Just try NOT to dance.

1978.

Gettin thru this winter....

...is not easy when you're trying to rein in the spending.

My self-imposed no shopping ban didn't last long at all. I think it lasted 2 days, as a matter of fact. Hey, how can I let these incredible deals pass me by?

I've scooped up some really great deals over the last 3 weeks as some of my fave retailers have slashed prices to get rid of stock.

Have you been wathcing these Lands End Canvas sales get better and better? How much better? Straight Fit Khakis for just over $10. Poplin shirts for $8. T shirts for $4. Now how can a self respecting man let those bargains pass by?

J. Crew had some great items hiding in the 40% off Final Sale as well. Secret Wash shirts for $17. Chamois shirts for $12. Slim fit tees for $6. Are you kidding me???

Quality staples at prices you're probably not gonna see for a long time.

Charles Tyrwhitt is running a great sale on men's shirts. Quality slim fit shirts can be had for less than $40.

So with all of this GREAT SMART SHOPPING and generous saving, I felt obligated to do my feet a favor and treat them to these Alden shell cordovan #8 boots:



Hope you're winter is coming along nicely.

Protecting the Brannock

A very interesting article in the January 11th Wall Street Journal about the infamous Brannock measuring device:

LIVERPOOL, N.Y.—Many have tried, but no one has ever come up with a more elegantly simple way to measure the human foot than Charles Brannock, inventor of that ubiquitous metal gadget found in shoe stores and known, fittingly, as the Brannock device.

Created in the 1920s, Mr. Brannock's tool is among the most enduring industrial designs ever. The company's original paperwork now resides in the Smithsonian Institution. Cameron Kippen, a foot historian and podiatrist in Australia, calls them an "icon of quality" that changed the way shoes were fitted.

But defending the Brannock legacy from competitors, who produce cheaply overseas, has become an uphill battle. Sal Leonardi bought the Brannock Device Co. Inc. from Mr. Brannock's estate in 1993 after the inventor died at age 89, and he promised to keep the factory in the Syracuse area for at least five years....

See the whole article here


Here is the man: (killer frames)

Overheard on the Street

Sometimes while walking down the streets of NYC you are privy to tiny bits of conversations that are very amusing.

Some snipets make no sense when heard out of context, but some are clearly understood.

Today, two women walking behind me were quite excited in their conversation and easy to hear.

Imagine this, in classic Staten Island accent (for those of you outside of NYC, you'll get the drift anyway)....

"I don't know what, but there is something about the light in my house that makes my nails look so good.....they look just like Kim Kardashian's".

Guess not everyone out there is walking around thinking about selvedge and crepe soles.

Black is the new Black

After my first trip to Italy in '96 I vowed to keep black shoes off of my feet while in public. I always preferred the richness of the color brown, but witnessing how the Italian men made grey flannel and navy blue really POP with a pair of medium brown shoes made me realize I had been living in the dark ages.

Today on the way home from work I took a visual shoe-survey of the men I saw on the street and on the train. I'd say a good 85-90% who were wearing dress shoes had black. Now what the shoes looked like is a whole 'nother story.

I've been very partial lately to Allen Edmond's Walnut Color and Alden's #8.

However, the past month has me feeling I need to add one quality black pair to my rotation. This Alden beauty may just be the one:

What's your preference on mix of colors?

That's all you got?

Hey friends. A very Happy New Year to you all.

Back in my college days, the hip hop album of choice was usually Dr. Dre or Snoop Dog's 1st collection.

Let's not even get into what became of Snoop. Dre, on the other hand, I always held out hope for.

Dunno if you heard it yet, but Dre is back with a new CD. First single is called Kush. Not being down with the lingo, I watched the video and only then learned that the song is all about weed.

I sat there and watched the video and I all could think about was "after all these years, the best you can do is write another damn song about smoking weed?" Disappointing. Really disappointing.

If this decade's creativity is making new songs about smoking weed I'll stick to some Teddy Pendergrass circa 1978.